Saturday, April 15, 2023

Last Day in Utah and the Journey Home: Canyonlands National Park

Our Utah trip has come to a close and we made it back home after a total of 20 hours in airports and on planes as well as over 1,000 miles of driving. It will be a trip written on our hearts for years to come.

Our favorite arch was Double Arch and our favorite hike was to Corona Arch. We prefer hikes that require dirt roads and climbing over rocks opposed to walking up stairs carved into the stone. All things wild prove to be worthwhile.  

The boys were intrigued by the fact that you could see red desert rock right in front of you and also snow-covered mountains next to them. I was surprised by how there were mountains, buttes, and huge rock formations everywhere--it was not just a vast plain with a mountain here and there. They jutted forth and crowded in all over landscape.

On Thursday morning, the weather gave a noticeable shift. It was overcast, windy, and cooler. Sand blew in everywhere, rusty ghosts hovering above the road. We checked out of the townhouse and visited one last adventure: Canyonlands National Park. The drive took us up the road and to the west where we found more greenery than Arches. Cows grazed in the open pasture and one crossed the road before us. 

The rangers were so nice this trip and treated Jack like a celebrity for helping us get our free fourth graders' park pass. They said, "Oh, wow! You have a fourth grader on board?!" It was really sweet.

First up was Mesa Arch. It is a short hike and we got in line to take a picture by the arch. You can see the canyon in the background of the arch. Afterward, we walked to the side and looked over the canyons below. I could have stayed a lot longer just sitting and taking pictures, but it was getting crowded and we had more to do.


 


We drove on to Upheaval Dome. Evidence points to this crater having been created by meteor. It's origins are not fully known. 


 

Lastly, we went to Grandview Overlook. The viewing area was a little crowded, so we walked over to the side to take pictures. 



Canyonlands was unique in its own way and it was nice to not have to hike too, too much with our sore legs. The perfect way to close out our trip. It was definitely growing more crowded as the day went on. From there, we drove four hours back to Salt Lake City to stay the night in a hotel in preparation for our 6:00 AM flight.

We all felt like we would have enjoyed another day or two in Moab. There is so much to do, and it felt like we barely began to cover it all. However, I know we pushed the boys with multiple hikes every day (and no rest days), so it was time to get on home and see all our critters again.

The flights home were mostly uneventful, which is always good. Tiring, but uneventful. Around 5:30 PM, we arrived home and felt relieved to sit in our backyard with our dogs, chickens, and trees. The yard is a mess, full of pollen and dirt, but it was refreshing to see trees and feel that sticky humidity. The trip was incredible, and we are blessed to feel content to be home.

So, what's next? Eliot and Jack really want to go to Sequoia. I need a couple of years to forget how nauseous I feel on planes and we'll need to save up. I do have enough points to cover at least one plane ticket. ;)

Wednesday, April 12, 2023

Utah Trip Days Four and Five: Arches National Park

As is the same for many people, Arches National Park inspired our trip to Moab, Utah. It was our main destination. I had never been to a national park before and wasn't sure what to expect, especially since we could only travel for spring break (didn't want to deal with the heat of summer) and it is one of the most popular parks.

From April until October, you must purchase your ticket with an assigned entry time in advanced. We bought tickets for two days as soon as they went on sale. I imagined it would feel like a crowded theme park, but it hasn't been too bad.

Arches Day One

We got up in time for our 10:00 AM entry time and picked up donuts from The Donut Shop. Eliot and Jack enjoyed sugar twists and Chris picked out a coffee and a maple. We wanted to try Doughbird, but it happens to be closed Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday--the only days we are here! However, the boys loved their donuts and were quite happy. We had extra time and sat at a viewing area of the Colorado River as a skydiver glided down.

Fortunately, I was very wrong about the crowds. The line to enter the park was reasonable--only about four cars ahead of us. Jack is in fourth grade and got us a free National Parks entrance pass.

First up was Balanced Rock. We watched Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade in preparation for our visit and Jack said that Balanced Rock probably wasn't as big as it looks from the movie. He changed his tune when he saw it in person--he said it was bigger than it looked in the movie.

From there, it is a short drive to Double Arch, the Windows, and Turret Arch. We hiked up to Double Arch first and played Indiana Jones again. Double Arch is huge and so much fun to crawl up the rocks and explore. The view was incredible too. It is all just too much to take in.

 


We walked over to the Windows and watched chipmunks run all around the rocks. The crowds were increasing, which were fine for still enjoying the arch, but making pictures difficult. Chris took Eliot down on a trail while Jack and I dangled our legs over the edge just to make Chris sweat a little.


 

I didn't expect a whole lot from Turret Arch, and it wasn't necessarily on my "list," but we enjoyed this one even more than the Windows. Maybe it was because there were less people and we felt like we could explore more and take more pictures. Eliot is starting to look for opportunities to take pictures on his phone too, and we took one of each other.


 

By then, Eliot was feeling quite bad and asking to head home. It was hot and he needed to try to rest up (and probably take some medicine). I felt like we could have done more, but we did knock a lot off our list for the day. We stopped by the welcome center to buy patches for the boys.

We took it easy for the rest of the day while Chris went for a run. Eliot has been dealing with chronic nausea and stomach pains for about six months. He had been doing kind of OK during our trip. Around 8:30 PM, he was in real trouble and started throwing up. This continued until 12:30 AM. Poor kid... He woke up feeling, errr, bad in the morning, but not throwing up anymore.

Arches Day Two

Delicate Arch was our goal for the day. Since Eliot was not doing awesome and Delicate Arch is an incredibly strenuous hike, I wasn't confident that we would make it, but he really put in his best effort. Delicate Arch is such an iconic arch that we didn't want to miss it. Eliot grumbled a bit along the way, yet he pushed through.

Here's where the crowds really kicked in. Chris said he felt like we were on a pilgrimage--and I had thought the exact same thing. We trudged forth up and up and up. It was about 80 degrees and a tough hike. I felt like Chris and I were at max parent-level or a "don't be like your parents" Progressive commercial because every time the wind blew, he or I would say, "Oh, that breeze feels nice." Just trying to keep these kids going and positive. 


 

After we finally conquered most of the uphill, we hiked along the narrow path with a wall to the right and a large drop-off into a canyon on the left. Chris doesn't do heights. He doesn't do narrow either (and it grew much narrower than this picture). When we had two-way traffic going, it became... a bit. He asked the boys to keep one hand on the wall.

Around the corner and there it was: Delicate Arch. And probably like 150 people, many of them waiting in line to take a picture. I'm big on pictures and not big on crowds; however, I wanted to ensure we got some nice shots to remember our time here. Who knows if we'll ever be back. If we do return, my boys won't be nine and twelve anymore: they'll be someone else.


 


We walked back to the shade and sat down to rest before going back down. Jack (who is usually very positive in general) said he didn't think the hike was worth it because of the crowds--that he wasn't able to enjoy the arch.

I had him stand and took pictures at our resting area. Then he turned around and asked, "Can we climb up there to that arch?" Chris said it looked dangerous and I said, "Yeah, let's not. You keep looking that way, Chris. Jack and I are definitely not climbing this way." And we climbed on up. 

And then something really cool happened. Jack looked out at the view and he could see Delicate Arch. It was his own private viewing area. Eliot climbed up too and they got the view they wanted without crowds and I got those pictures I obsess over.

Another person came and took our spot, so we headed back down. On the way, we viewed the petroglyphs near the Wolfe ranch.


As our time at Arches came to a close, we stopped by Park Ave for pictures. We are checking out tomorrow morning to begin our long trip home. I feel like we would have made use of another day. However, we did a lot and I feel kind of hiked-out myself. I'm sunburnt too. Don't tell my dermatologist.

We rested up at the townhouse and then washed the rental car. It was BAD and Chris and I were nervous they might charge us extra for returning it so muddy. We did a little shopping for shirts and books, and then we had dinner and shaved ice at the food truck park. Eliot is still not feeling well, but better than last night.

Tomorrow morning, we check out and will go by Canyonlands National Park. Then we'll drive two hours to Price to go to a dinosaur museum. Then onto a night in Salt Lake City to fly out early the next morning.

Tuesday, April 11, 2023

Utah Trip Day Three: Wilson Arch, Dino Tracks, and Corona Arch

 Today was our transition from Monticello to Moab. We packed up in the morning to check out of the dome and braved the creek-road one last time. Staying in the dome was a fun adventure, but we were looking forward to being able to come and go without worrying about getting stuck and also not having to drive as far. And Chris was going crazy not being able to go for runs every day. You may ask, "But if you're doing multiple hikes every day, doesn't that count?" No, it does not for Chris. Ha.

Wilson Arch is a small stop off the side of the road on the way to Moab. The arch is huge (way bigger than it looks in pictures). You could just take pictures from the parking area or hike up half-way or go all the way to the top. Jack was ready to run up while Eliot was more cautious. I told him that we could go as far up as he wanted. Then Chris, Jack, and Eliot all took off running up the steep cliffside.

We went all the way up to the top and enjoyed views of the road and what looks like a small ranch behind the arch. Chris took the above picture of Eliot and me while he and Jack began climbing down. Wilson Arch is definitely worth the stop, and Eliot even said it was his favorite hike of the day.




We continued on to Moab and arrived about 11:20 AM, leaving us four and a half hours until we could check into our townhouse. I planned out a couple of hikes off Potash Road, which is near the entrance to Arches.

I read about some dinosaur tracks near the Poison Spider Trail parking lot off Potash Road. I promised the boys that it was a short walk (like 0.2 miles) to the tracks. What I didn't realize (probably because I have read so many trail reports on different hikes) is that it is a strenuous 0.2 miles with a rocky, steep, narrow path that requires some scrambling. It wasn't bad, but just not what I told them to expect. Eliot and Jack enthusiastically ran ahead, not entirely intuitively following the trail, sending Chris and I into a bit of a panic. No one got hurt; we all survived. It was quite tricky getting down, though.




A little farther down Potash Road is the Corona Arch and Bowtie Arch parking lot and trailhead. The lot was pretty full, but there was enough parking for us and a handful more. I had read a lot of great reports for this hike and was really excited--probably looking forward to this one more than anything throughout the trip. The boys were intimidated by the idea of hiking for three miles after already having done two hikes, being in the car so much, and the heat. I also think they were more than ready for lunch. They did it, though, and the hike did not disappoint. We crossed railroad tracks, used a chain to climb up a steep incline, climbed a ladder, and more all while surrounded by awesome red rock and a canyon in sight. You get to see Pinto Arch, Bowtie Arch, and Corona Arch on this trip.






On the way back to Main Street, we pulled over to see some pteroglyphs carved into the wall. I took some pictures, but I haven't uploaded them yet because I'm lazy. I suspect there is a lot more to explore on Potash Road than we'll be able to take in.

We still had a couple of hours left before check-in. We got lunch and went to the rock shop where Jack and Eliot put their money together to buy a cave bear tooth. Chris browsed the bookstore and the boys said they were still hungry. The food truck park right by the bookstore offers many options. Jack and I split a pizza while Chris and Eliot got quesadillas followed by gelato for the boys for dessert. By then, we could go to our townhouse!

The townhouse is in Moab, but just outside the Main Street area. We can get to the shops quickly without the noise of the road. Sometimes you go off the grid and sleep in a dome; sometimes you stay in a townhouse with a foosball table and a pool pass. It's all about balance, right?

Great day in Moab and we've barely scratched the surface. And we haven't even been to a National Park yet either! Up next: two days at Arches National Park.

Sunday, April 9, 2023

Utah Trip Day Two: Bears Ears National Monument

 Our first full day in Utah was dedicated to exploring Bears Ears.

I woke up early and, as usual, Eliot got up before the sun, but it was 4:00 AM Mountain time. We stargazed through the dome and had some special time together. Meanwhile, Jack snoozed until around 7:45 AM.

As the sun rose over the dome, a rooster crowed and the boys saw a coyote and a rabbit behind our dome. The temps got down to about 25 in the night, freezing most of the water on the dirt road. Getting out was a bit easier than arriving; however, we knew it'd be difficult again to return after the road thawed.

Bears Ears is about an hour away. We planned a hike to House on Fire, which would require a day-use hiking permit for Cedar Mesa. We couldn't just buy one online ahead of time because all permits must be validated by a ranger. I worried that the office might be closed since it was Easter, but fortunately they were open. After buying our hiking permits, Chris pulled over to the side of the road to let me take a picture with the... bear's ears. Something like five different Native American groups named this area all in different languages, but the names each translate to the same title: Bears Ears.

Be sure to plan ahead extensively before going to Bears Ears. There will be no cell coverage there to check on maps or details. I mapped out our directions with Google Maps before and took screenshots and also downloaded a map of Cedar Mesa. House on Fire is in Mule Canyon in Cedar Mesa. The closest ranger station is Kane Gulch. You must pay in exact cash for permits, and if you want to buy anything else (books, magnets, etc), they only take cards.

The ranger said the parking area and trail head was clearly marked, but there were so many cars that they must have been blocking the signs. We drove past the parking area for a good mile on a bumpy dirt road before deciding we had gone too far and turned around. The trail itself was pretty easy. It followed along a small canyon that we crossed a few times with some water at points. We dressed in hats, hoodies, and jackets since it was cold in the morning at the dome, but it quickly warmed up. Dressing in layers is the key, I suppose. We enjoyed checking out the interesting rock features and nooks along the way.



After a mile, we came upon House on Fire, known for the "ceiling" above appearing to be in flames when the sun hits it just right (around 10:00 AM).



Jack and Chris went on the trail a little more through a slot of sorts. It looked really fun, but Eliot excessively worried about rattlesnakes all day for some reason. After a lot of begging from us, Eliot pushed himself and went through with us. I'm so glad he did because Chris noticed some handprint art above us. I wasn't sure if we'd be able to see any handprints during our time in Bears Ears.



From there, we hiked back to the trailhead and had lunch in the car. Then we drove to another part of Bears Ears to see Newspaper Rock.

It was time to face the road home to the dome. The temperature had risen all day and we were concerned about the melted snow turning the road to mud even more. The owner of the domes said they had something like ten feet of snow rapidly melting and pouring down from the mountains. Ah. When we arrived back at the domes, the road looked more like a flowing creek and the owner (looking very stressed) was working to create a ditch to divert the water. He apologized again, but we made it to the dome and decided we wouldn't leave until it was time to check out the next morning. 

After some relaxing, we hiked down the mountain behind our dome to play in the snow until everyone got wet socks.


While the dome was complicated with the road and a bit away from everything, I enjoyed our time here. It was a unique place to stay and felt very special. Tomorrow morning, we check out of the dome and head to Moab for some adventures.